Bujosa Textiles, reviving traditional handmade textiles from Majorca

 There is nothing more appealing to a textiles researcher than be surrounded by fabrics
and those who can tell you about the history of the making. Some time ago I was invited
to visit a textiles shop/workshop, Bujosa Textiles. in Santa Maria del Camí, Majorca.

The surprise was to find out about the history of the place: a family run business

that is more than 60 years old, and now is revived by the youngest generation who

felt impelled to commit to the handmade traditional Majorcan textile manufacturing.

They are proud manufacturers of not only traditional fabric called "telas de llenguas",
 but other fabrics using cotton, linen and silks of finest quality.  

One of the most interesting thing is to be able to visit the "telares" or mills that

are many years old and are still working perfectly, they show us how the fabrics 

were produced and the real meaning of using any of the fabrics for clothing, 

upholstery, curtains or home ware.

 The noise produced by the mills, the dust in the tools, and the many colored thread
coils waiting to be used talk about time and perseverance, and waiting for the
right moment to flourish again in the middle of mass production industry turbulences.  

The quality is the important key in the business and they look for the right texture, 

the impressive colors and the long last quality, a fabric that should accompany

 you for many years and generations.  An ode to sustainability!

The origins of these fabrics may be found in the oriental world, 

as there are examples of similar fabrication like the ikats.

The most used color is the blue sourced from the natural indigo,

 but nowadays thanks to chemistry there are other ways to dye threads.

Dying is handmade which gives the artisanal and exclusive quality 

to fabrics and, so being more appreciated.

"Living Fashion" exhibition, MoMu Antwerp (Mar-Aug 2012)

We are again in the weeks where the news about fashion in the main international cities 
are  full with mentions to catwalks and presentations for A/W collections.  The nowness 
of these events influence the obvious reflection on the importance of timelessness.

  To help understanding the meaning of wearing fashion, the MoMu Antwerp produced in 
2012 an exhibition that displayed part of the collection of Mrs. Jacoba de Jonge, which at
 that time was being researched, and now is part of the museum's archives.

The exhibit called "Living Fashion, Women's daily wear 1750-1950", curated by 

Karen Van Godtsenhoven and Wim Mertens, both curators at the Mode Museum, 

explored the idea of middle class women's garde robe for every day circumstances.

The period the exposition covered is ample, and showed the transformations and 

impositions of fashion rules over a long lapse, and reflects how changes in garments

 and habits of wearing them were somehow a product of historical and social changes.

The exhibition was divided into 13 sections each one of them presenting the different

 aspects of apparels and accessories, establishing a conversation on how and when to

wear them and translating the the evolution of textiles and patterns.  The design of the

layout followed the idea of juxtaposing home and street wear according to social rules. 

At the entrance of the expo there was a video showing some interesting aspects
 of working with archives and collections and there was a sing with information 
about delicate conditions under what the dress, costumes and textiles must be 
exhibited, therefore the very bleak lighting was used in all the halls that 
sometimes colored warmly some garments.

These are images for some of the pieces shown and the general views of the exhibit.

Expo about "Nobody wants the night" (film) costume by Clara Bilbao, Museo del Traje Madrid

A temporary exhibit at the Museo del Traje (Madrid)  based on the costume wore by Josephine, the main character in the film "Nobody wants the night", directed by Isabel Coixet that opened at Berline 2015.

Josephine (Binoche) travels to the hostile icy landscape of the remote North in search of her explorer husband..... (from imdb.com storyline)

 

The show displays part of the garments that the actress Binoche used in the film all designed by costume designer Clara Bilbao, who has been awarded for her creations.

It is a privilege to be able to walk around the pieces and admire the patterns, the fabrics used and learn where the inspiration to create them came from.  The team at the Museo del Traje collaborated with the designer in offering expertise and the the visits to the collections of garments housed in the museum that are from the film's time.

The show is on display until February 3rd, 2016, and the closing will be celebrate with a lecture by the designer about the wardrobe shown and her work in costume design in general, (check Museo del Traje for event details)