Showing posts with label delicate. Show all posts
Showing posts with label delicate. Show all posts

Modamorfosis, exhibition at Museo del Traje Madrid

Exhibition review



MODAMORFOSIS - Museo del Traje, Madrid. Dates: 3 March - 29 May 2016

The idea and concept behind this exhibition recently closed at Museo del Traje Madrid is construct, deconstruct and reconstruct.  And from there the curators, Lucina Llorente and Juan Gutierrez have laid out, or better said, displayed their thesis about the evolution and re-volution of the ever lasting process of dressing the body.

By choosing some pieces from the Museum's collection, they present their statement about the ideal of a three de-codification stages concept in the making of fashion history.

The exhibition shows an eight sections, path that starts with some pieces from the XVIIIth century following some milestones of the Western fashion history, to draw a map of encounters, crossovers, validation or invalidations of patterns, silhouettes, colors, shapes, ornaments.

The well organized distribution, with panels-labels and the audacious display of garments arranged as an outright paragraph to explain the initial concept, is exceeded by the unusual presentation of the eight pieces that draw the backbone of the exhibition.  They are suspended in the air as their own ground and providing with their intense presence the connections between the sections of the exhibit as a nexus of the references and creating the frame for the central space, that of the space of confluence, where the new construction marks the new shape re-invented from the parts of the pasts ones.

The circular lay out of the display of the pieces grouped by sections with explanatory panels, enhances the initial sensation of constraint and confinement produced by the low light in the room and the binding round path and helps reading the display as a circular walk for the concept that is countersigned by the central display on the ground of the pieces of patterns of the garment designed by Comme des Garçons (1983) that is hanging almost dismantled just above the space, becoming the focal point for the exhibit.

The right decision of showing the pieces without a glass protection, permits not only enjoy with  respectful proximity the dresses, but also better understand how they are crafted.  There is a great pleasure in surrounding yourself with clothes and from a little distance feel what it would be wearing them!

There is also another advantage derived from this display, and that is of learning from observing how the body silhouettes were/are created: the specific tailoring with all the inventions in patterns, applied ornaments, and adds to produce shapes, volumes, etc.,

The titles in panels are part of the statement of the exhibition and they work as nexus for the sections:
Dress without artifice.  The body defined. Freedom of movement. Marking distances. Construct, deconstruct, reconstruct. Keep on looking at me. The function and form. Variations on three pieces.
Sections conceived as a conversation about the idea and concept of form, shaping the body with fashion creations.

View of the exhibition.













Nueva vida para una prenda vintage: vestido de novia especial



Articulo colaboración de Lula Alvarez (fotos y concepto) con Laura Escribano (textos), 
quien nos describe su proceso de trabajo para crear vestidos de novia únicos, partiendo
de piezas o prendas vintage.

(Pieza en desarrollo creativo)

"Contar historias, traerlas y entrelazarlas es algo que mueve mis días.
Y me mueve a realizar trajes que cuentan historias, atrapando con fragmentos textiles su
pasado, su vida y su alma. Recuperándolos y aportándoles mi particular visión de la 
creación de indumentaria contemporánea y personalizando cada traje para cada mujer que
 visite el Atelier. Recorro anticuarios, casas particulares, mercadillos de España y del Norte
 de Europa y EE.UU, en busca de piezas con alma, que me transmitan fuerza y expresión."

"Trabajar con estos cachitos de historia viva, su tacto, su color, su arte... me impregna de
ideas que ofrecer a las mujeres de nuestro tiempo. Tengo especial predilección por las
piezas de estilo victoriano, edwardiano y por las décadas de 1920 y 1930. Su calidad,
colores y texturas son mi debilidad y veo en ellos una fuente inagotable de inspiración."

"En estas preciosas fotografías de Lula Alvarez se muestra un cuerpo de principios de
la Belle Epoque, que en su día se superponía además de a la ropa interior, al corsé, con una
rica guarnición de cordón de seda montado en dos finas capas de tul y gasa de la misma
fibra natural de origen animal."

"Se aprecia el desgastado estado en que traigo las piezas. El trabajo comienza con
la limpieza, tallaje y observación de la construcción de la prenda. Al tratarse de
indumentaria histórica original, habitualmente transformo el patronaje interior,
adaptándolo a la figura femenina de nuestros días."

"Trabajo con un equipo de especialistas en restauración de textiles y encajes y con una
modista y bordadores que hacen posible mis creaciones. Una vez realizado un estudio
previo, comienzo a pensar, dibujar y mezclar con otros textiles antiguos, para llegar a
completar un traje único."